WHAT'S IN THE BAG: BATTERIES

Think of the stuff you bring to the range: is it a hodgepodge of kit and gear, or is it methodically selected and organized? Among the shooters I've encountered, they tend to fall into one camp or the other. In this series, What's in the Bag (yes, I stole that from the golf videos I watch on YouTube), I'll discuss what I take to the range, the different bags I use, the gear I bring, and the why behind it all. Everything serves a purpose, and if it doesn't, it doesn't belong.

In the first edition of this series, we discussed an optics maintenance kit and its importance to the modern shooter. We then discussed magazine storage and organization and why that matters at the range and on your bench. I've found that having the right tools and systems in place can ease the stress of problems at the range. In today's article, I'll discuss batteries: the types, the chargers, parasitic drain, and how to keep it all straight. But first, I gotta ask: do you have a proper storage system for your batteries? Do you keep them orderly or throw them into the range bag willy-nilly? In doing so, do you lose track of them and forget what needs what? Having a storage solution can alleviate this problem. I also find this prevents the issue of grabbing the wrong battery for the optics (and lights) you are taking. Nothing is worse than realizing the battery of the rifle's red dot is dead, and you brought a CR1632 when you needed a CR2032.

BATTERY MAYHEM

Here's a challenge: Go through your collection and count how many items require batteries (optics, flashlights, rangefinders, etc.). While you do this, write down the types of batteries needed—you know, the CR2032s, CR123As, and 18650s, and keep a tally. What does your list look like? Daunting, right?

These days, everything requires some form of lithium power source. (Just think: When was the last time you actually shot with iron sights?) So, keeping it all straight, having inventory, and having an organizational method is necessary. But where to start? For me, it comes down to a solid storage solution and a regimented schedule to check and change batteries (or charge them).

STORAGE

For storage, I returned to Milwaukee's PACKOUT™ system and chose the 5-Compartment Low-Profile Compact Small Parts Organizer. This organizer easily fits in a drawer of my tool chest and is simple to grab and take to the range or a training class. Each compartment can be further divided for better organization. This system accommodates all the "small" batteries, including CR2032, CR2016, CR1632, CR2, and CR123As. These batteries effectively power all my red dots, riflescopes, rangefinders, chronographs, and pistol lights, making this the system I rely on most. Depending on use, I check batteries twice a year: during the first week of January and then again in July.

One important lesson I've learned is to buy quality batteries. Do NOT buy cheap or knock-off ones. Parasitic drain is real, and you'll think you're popping in a new battery, only for it to die a few weeks (or days) later. I generally stick with Energizer or whatever is factory recommended. Not all batteries are speced the same, and performance can diminish.

For large rechargeable batteries that don't fit easily into an organizer like this, I use a Thyrm CellVault. This holds batteries primarily for flashlights and rifle-mounted lights. The CellVault is waterproof thanks to a gasket and is made from a tough polymer material. It's customizable and can fit a wide variety of battery types. To improve ergonomics, Thyrm added integrated MOLLE straps, enabling me to attach it directly to my range bag.

I also set up a section of my workbench as a charging station. I like to keep rechargeable batteries in constant rotation, so I'm always prepared and never rushing to charge them right before a range trip or class (the fastest way to ruin a lowlight course, trust me—I've been there).

BATTERY DRAIN

Earlier, I mentioned parasitic drain, but I never defined it or explained what it is and why the brand of battery matters. Parasitic drain is typically discussed concerning car batteries, but the reality is that the concept applies to any battery. Parasitic drain refers to a small but continuous electrical current. This can be a common source of frustration with car batteries, but in flashlights, for example, the drain occurs because most LED flashlights require a constant power supply to detect when they are being turned on. This is why I remove the batteries between classes or range sessions while the gun is stored. (Of course, I keep batteries in the weapons I carry or have available for home defense).

Regarding battery quality, I've found that inexpensive options from Aldi or Amazon lack the lifespan and output needed to effectively power modern high-candela weapon lights. Some may function in the short term, but in reality, this is merely temporary. The moral of the story is to invest in good batteries. Ultimately, it can make all the difference in a high-stress scenario.

FINAL THOUGHTS

In today's era of electro-optics, flashlights, and nearly every optic attached to your rifle or pistol require a battery. With the variety of types and brands available, this can be overwhelming. However, by utilizing organizers and a system to track what needs what and when to switch, you can conquer the conundrum.

Too often, I've gone to the range with friends, only to find their weapons inoperable due to a dead battery. Fortunately, I usually have a spare battery on hand to alleviate the frustration. Let's all be better.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Cory Ross has been working in the firearms industry for over 11 years. What started as a part-time job during college turned into a full-time career, allowing him to work with some great people and companies along the way. He also earned a master's degree in History from Cleveland State University. He's not shooting, reloading, or working on his fitness; he's usually reading, writing, or building something with Legos.